Kirsteen Lyth

Daughter of Fortune by Isabel Allende and The Box of Delights by John Masefield

Performance Costume - BA (Hons)

School of Design

kclyth@gmail.com

KLDesignandmodelmaking.com

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Eliza Sommers disguised as Chileno boy, Daughter of Fortune

Graduate Costumes BA (Hons) Performance Costumes

Project description

Daughter of Fortune by Isabel Allende is a work of historical fiction set 1832-1854. It follows the life of Eliza Sommers, a foundling left on the steps of British Colonial home of siblings Rose and Jeremy Sommers, Valparaiso, Chile to a young woman running away to the Gold Rush, California in search of her first love. Costumes were designed with historical accuracy, using traditional techniques of weaving, natural dyes, fabrics and garments hand sewn.

The Box of Delights by John Masefield is a children's fantasy novel filled with folklore, magic and time travel. This adaption is set during post World War 2 during the years of austerity. Woman adapted mens old suits into jackets and skirts as fabric was rationed. Wool and silk was require for the war effort as uniforms and parachutes.The costumes reflect the recycling of clothing in a 1940s style. A patchwork of tweeds and sari silk mark the end of war and the reuse of now redundant material.

Eliza Sommers

Disguised as a Chileno boy.

Eliza has arrived in San Francisco, a town highly populated with men seeking their fortune in the Gold Rush, 1849. Weak from the loss of her baby, Eliza survives by disguising herself as Tao's chinese brother. This new freedom, as a young man, allows her to move freely and seek employment. She continues her life of disguise as a young Chileno boy, buys a horse with her savings and continues her quest to find her first love, Joaquin.

The Chileno boy costume was created through research of paintings of the period. Fabrics reflected those of the period. The weaving incorporated designs of the Mapuche and Chilean cultures and were created using Inkle and table top looms. Fabric was naturally dyed with indigo and java plum plant dye to reflect the traditional colours of the indigenous people.

Costume hand sewn with traditional weaving patterns

Felted and Inkle Andean Pattern weave waistcoat

Hand Woven Andean Pattern Photo Sandy Butler

Eliza reads her love letters from Joaquin Andieta

Eliza Sommers Travels Photo Sandy Butler

Eliza Sommers 1849 Chileno boy costume

Eliza Sommers Chamanto Photo Sandy Butler

Cole Hawlings

Cole Hawlings is a time traveller. Originally a philosopher from 1577, his real name Ramon Lully, discoverer of the elixir of life. He arrives in Kay’s life in the guise of a magician and Punch and Judy man.Within his coat, he carries a small wooden, oak box- the box of delights. Inside the box is a world of folklore, where Herne the Hunter is its guardian. The box allows the carrier to travel in time, move swiftly to your destination and make you small.

His costume reflects the reuse and recycle of the post World War 2 years. The earthy tweed palette is in keeping with the natural, folklore and old man image of the 1940s. The lining and box pleats of the coat are colourful gold and red stripes of a Punch and Judy show, adding a touch of magic and misery to Hawlings.